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I got a look at some 2017 Super Duty information.

 

It has the same "gateway module" architecture as the F150, Fusion, Edge, 2016 Explorer ETC.

 

Havent got my hands on one physically, but there is no visible reason why the existing firmware wont work.

 

Yay!

 

Just a note. Did a 2015 Transit the other day. Worked great except no hood shutdown in D2D (DEI starter) I did not have time to try w2w, or firmware changes. I do know there was a beta firmare that stated but the recommended version was the lower one. The beta did indeed indicate "d2d protocol enhancements" or something similar in wording So maybe I should have tried the Beta. Sorry, didnt record kit number, but it will be the last one flashed under my account.

I talked to someone on the phone about this briefly. 2015 Focus ST. Manual transmission. PTS Intelligent access. This car does not have TX/RX wires. I work at a ford dealer and confirmed through the diagrams. ADS confirms some cars are this way and is in "development". Viper w/evo all However: - Trying to program the kit without Tx/rx to the car, I can get "some" of it to work. - Unlock through CAN works. Lock does not. There IS NO lock wire in the car. Everything is data or RF (Or needs to see fob RF OUTSIDE of the car, then the intelligent access lock wire inside the handle will work. As soon as the fob is moved inside the car, that circuit will not lock the doors. The wire does trigger when you touch the button on the outside of the door, but the car doesnt respond unless the fob is outside. ) . The only way to do lock without the right firmware would be to maybe go to the switch in the door, or hardwire a relay to the all-lock wire are the BCM which goes straight out to the motors in the door. (AKA old-school reverse polarity locks) - RAP shutdown not working off the evo. - Without CAN hooked up, you need to power up second start-switch wire. With can hooked up its ok without. I would have done it without the kit at all, but then you have a shut-down problem. If I was using an Astro-Start, the outputs are configurable enough to set up a separate shut-down output. But the Viper is not and I have to rely on the evo to actually shut off the car when required by the starter but not shut it off accidentally when running by the driver. - Brake output (for start) on the EVO does not work. Brake on the bus/D2D kills the starter when starting while powering up the brake wire. So, disable brake status. Wire brake input and start output from the brain to a relay then to the car. Thus when starting the relay energizes and the starter does not see a brake signal. Once crank pulse is over, relay de-energizes and brake shutdown works. - Ebrake status does not work properly in W2W. Hardwired ebrake to car instead. - Door status, Hood status, tach is working D2D - It seems there are 3 clutch switches in the car. Upper and Lower at the pedal plus one on the transmission. Grounding the wires at the pedal will get the car the car to start but triggers "engine fault" warning. Warning goes away when started by depressing the clutch. Will not trip a permanent light but will log a hidden code indicating a problem with the clutch switches. At this point I am not even going to try the last switch at the trans/pcm. No typical transponder setup for key-wrap. Take the battery out of the key and put it in the center console, car will start. I tried wrapping the key and putting it inline with the antenna wires going to the keyless access module and couldnt get it to start. I dont have an INSET in stock so I am going to maybe try wiring a relay to the power circuit in the fob to power it up/down with GWR. But not sure if it needs a lock or unlock push to "re-awaken" the fob or not. Big huge ass pain right now. Im about ready to pull it out and await proper firmware, but the customer "really" wants this. I am 10 hours in and still need to wire lock, transponder and RAP shutdown! (But now since the evo isnt actually controlling rap, I worry it will send a door-open signal to the starter, killing ready mode. Argh.

Put in evoall to this 2015 F150 with push-to-start. Truck has OEM start so this is to be used as range extender with smart start. However, cannot get the truck to start. At this point I am trying to start by grounding the yellow/black start trigger input. The module clicks but nothing happens. If I ground the lock and unlock inputs it will lock and unlock fine. Kit ID 001A06 445232

Was considering doing a 2015 F150 (key) with Evo All stand-alone and smart start. But your guide says locks only work when engine is running. Why is this? I want to pre-load a bunch of lot vehicles with 3 lock start which is fine, but if we add the smart start (or RF kit) as an upgrade, I can see some confusion from the customer. Does the engine have to be running, or just ignition on? (like power up IGN with a disarm pulse at the same time as unlock?)

The 2014 Ronda has auto folding mirrors that fold on lock and unfold on unlock. They do NOT unfold if the engine is running though. This is a known issue with no current fix that I am aware of. The 2 current solutions are: 1 - Have customer shut off auto fold option. (This is my recommendation) 2 - the customer will have to use the folding mirror switch in the car to unfold the mirrors every time door is unlocked while in remote-start mode. FYI!!

Did 2014 Kia Rondo yesterday w/viper brain. Evo-All would NOT lock into D2D mode. Tech support said I needed Ver 6 hardware. Everything we have is ver 6. Had problems with "brake" signal. Turned off the brake signal in the EVO and hard-wired and all was well. Need to do 2014 Optima today and it shows 76.10 firmware minimum. Without a properly working D2D mode I need to do W2W :( Please update firmware(s) to be D2D compatible! This is a Kia dealership and will be switching bypass kits to another solution that does work in D2D if no solution soon (as in a couple of weeks tops) I confirmed the D2D problem by downloading an older version of flashlink updater. When in FORTIN mode it shows up to 76.10 however when I click D2D 76.02 is the highest option. I have to assume it is with the firmware itself and not hardware or flashing problem.